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To do list

We need a setup that will give us some room to grow with good mid range power. Hopefully the car will be able to make around 200-210hp reliably by the time we are done with installing the first engine and correct size turbo. We plan to eventually bring the car into one color scheme with a nice custom flame paint job. For the interior we want a roll cage with mostly aluminum pieces for the interior and a set of racing seats. For the suspension we want to bolt all the good pieces we already have together and race on them for awhile and see where it will need the greatest improvement overall.

Pull both Motors
Get Transmission from GT (pull tcc possibly pull pan and replace filter?)
Port where possible ( practice on spare head possibly cut spare head into cross sections to better understand where to port)
New intake setup from 92+ using fuel rail, intake, TB with larger injectors. (if stock turbo fuel rail will bolt up)
Radiator,  3.1 v6 radiator
Wire everything up (much research to be done here still)
Eliminate EGR

Fuel System:
Drop tank clean fuel sending unit (be 100% sure sending unit is working properly before bolting gas tank back up)
Check gas lines, clean them up and treat them or replace
Replace Fuel Filter
Change Fuel Pump to GT Pump

T3 Turbo
Make custom turbo plumbing.
Exhaust Manifold with t3 stuff (stock mani with flange welded on)

Check bearings on front
Brakes from GT Front and back
Steel Braided lines from rear of GT
New set of braided lines for front (take extra care in placement of them once installed)

Front Strut tower bar
Springs from GT
Shocks from GT
P/S rack from the GT
Sway bars and end links from GT

Body Work:
Spray engine bay
Hood From GT
Right front fender from GT
Front Bumper from GT
Delete passenger side mirror
Spray interior
Repaint entire car
shave trunk lock and granny rack.
Custom flame paint job by Dusty

Dash from GT
Cluster from GT
Shifter assembly from GT (is it needed?)
Door Panels from GT
Relocate battery to trunk
Emergency On/Off Switch when battery is relocated
Leather transmission, emergency brake covers

Parts Needed (in order of importance):
TCC solenoid (Unless we are cheap and just leave it out)
New front brake lines steel braided
fuel filter
Connections for transmission cooler

2.2 metal headgasket?

Air filter
Mistu or aftermarket Intercooler
Custom Pipes

Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge, AFR Gauge, EGT gauge,
metal petals
Switch panel

Mods: (in order most likely to actually happen)
transmission cooler
Cooling fan switch
Remove heater core and all a/c parts.
3.1 V6 radiator
Front Strut tower bar
Water/Meth injection?
Front Subframe from GTZ or weld in some flat bar possibly.
Roll Cage
Aluminum Dash with switch panel
Aluminum Door panels

Tools We Need:
Ajustable torque wrench
Welder  tig
Metal Cutting tools
Body work tools
Paint Gun
Air compresser

Reference Material:
Ned has a small t-3, the mopar Turbo I t3 (not the mitsu turbo I) off a mid 80's dodge 2.2 turbo. I have the same turbo but it is not yet on, should be by the end of the week. The advantage of this turbo is it is cheap (both of us paid about 100 off ebay) there is much support for it from the dodge guys, it flows about 30% more then stock, has a much beefier centersection and shaft, and is completly compatible with other t-3 parts such as bigger housings or wheels or downpipes. The disadvantage is nothing bolts up to it. A adaptor plate for the manifold needs to be made, new oil and coolant lines or extending/moving stock ones, extended intake pipe, etc. And the wastegate actuator on it sticks WAY out in front, a good 2" so it hits the radiator. Ned moved his radiator, I'm moving the actuator, I heavily modified the mount for it. I will post pictures of everything later today.

My turbo is a T3/T04B on my 2.0L Sunbird. I get boost at 2200 rpms and full boost by 2800 rpms. Here is the specs on the turbo;
Garrett T3/T04B
Compressor: T04B 24 trim .60 A/R
Turbine: T3 72 trim .48 A/R

The compressor is pretty much about the smallest T04 that you can get. While the T3 turbine section is about middle of the road. THe turbo shop told me that at 10 psi of boost, this turbo has the capability of supporting 350 hp while being 75% efficient. This turbo is also capable of supporting 400-450 hp. It was designed for my 2.0L non-intercooled motor to spool quick, yet not heat the intake air nearly as much as the factory turbo.

I'm running a T3/T04B turbo on my Sunbird. It's definately on the big side, and the lag is a little annoying, but on the highway it's great!!

However, I had to do more than just move my radiator forward to make it fit. I had to custom mount the radiator fan(no room up front), remove the A/C compressor, remove the A/C condensor, grind down one of the motor mounts for clearance, modify the exhaust manifold, modify the oil and coolant lines, do a custom intake for the turbo, and had to get custom exhaust made.

Shawn, Go to your local Isuzu dealer and get a head gasket for a 98 Amigo 2.2DOHC (X22SE/Y22SE). It is a MUCH better head gasket than any O.E. or aftermarket replacement for the GET.

hello, fellows. I feel like we are crashing someone else's party! The rods bolts are the weak link. They basically amount to a grade 8 hardware store bolt. (10.5 metric rating) THE DAEWOO ENGINES USE THE SAME ROD AND SAME GRADE 10.5 BOLTS AS THE C20NE/GET US ENGINES! The 12.x bolts found in the 1.8L SOHC are a better bolt. Better yet, a set of ARP bolts for US$45.00 and a good re-size will enable up to 300HP. Polish and shot-peen the beams and they are good for 350 (as long as you keep shifts under 7000rpm). The original engine in my GA was detonated. Two rods broke 1" up the beam from the big-end. Windowed both sides of the block and broke the crank in 3 places. If anyone has plans for real hp from a Daewoo engine, ARP rod bolts are the way to go.

I was cleaning up the valve cover for this new 2.0 I'm building and I noticed the baffles in the valve cover unbolt. There is a plastic baffle, an aluminum baffle and a sheetmetal plate. When you remove all that you'll see two pieces of SS louvered screening that is layered. I figured since I soaked the cover for a day before I scrubbed it it would be pretty clean inside. Well, there was still a fair amount of gunk on the screen closest to the oil cap. So I cleaned it as best I could and now I'm taking it to the machine shop to hot tank it before I reassemble it. So the bottom line is when you have your valve cover off you may want to remove the baffles to make sure your screens aren't plugged up. I'd think you'd have blow by, oil leaks and high RPM venting problems if your crankcase can't vent properly. Check yours out!
The old-fashion carburetor bucket does the trick. Not spray-can, but the caustic sh*t. You can buy a 5gal bucket from NAPA. Its good for degreasing and striping paint off small parts. Just don't get it on your hands or clothes!

The convertibles have subframe braces along the rockers. They are riveted to the body. Mantapart has a rear K-brace, and rear shock tower bar, GM made a strut tower bar that was mostly found on wagons, and GM also made a front subframe brace that came on Berretta GTZ's that you can get for about 20 bucks (look in my profile for a link and part number)

UGH. NEVER AGAIN  4 hours of hell. Tough to do by yourself. Worked until 2 AM in the garage! Lining up that steering coupler sucks, and I didn't think to pull the inner tie rods off the rack when removing it.  Well, I got my Z24 rack sold to me by ginobeats a few months ago into my VL/Z24 hybrid.
Was it worth it?
That face should say it all. I guess my car is a Z24 now, except for the v6 and larger exhaust. Everything else is done

Wild Horses Racing :: Performance Auto Resource

Turbo Goodies, cheap turbo goodies!

Bushings urethane


2nd Gen/Beretta GTZ front subframe brace GM Part# 22555480
GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts

Cooling fan switch

TCC solenoid

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